Design & Historical Context |
The 1950s were a time of great cultural and technological change, marked by the emergence of rock 'n' roll, the birth of the "Beat" Generation, the launch of Sputnik, and the beginning of the space race. These events, and the knowledge that the world was living in a nuclear age, contributed to the development of an aesthetic known as the "Atomic Age," which was reflected in various aspects of design, including jewelry.
In 1947, Christian Dior introduced a new look in fashion that brought back a more feminine silhouette, rejecting the somber styles that had been popular during wartime. This new look, featuring a fitted bodice and décolleté neckline atop a full skirt flowing out from a tight-fitted waistline, called for a revised design aesthetic for the jewelry and accessories that accompanied it. Jewelry during this time was characterized by a trend towards more elaborate and ornate pieces, with the phrase "the more the merrier" seeming to apply.
To complete this elegant and stylish look, diamonds set in platinum were often worn across the feminine décolletage and on the ears, which were newly revealed by upswept hair held in place by diamond clips. The DeBeers Diamond Corporation ensured that the demand for diamonds would not wane with their "A Diamond is Forever" campaign, which promoted the use of diamonds at all income levels, particularly the rapidly growing middle class. They also cleverly awarded prizes to jewelers worldwide who incorporated beauty, design, function, and diamonds into their modern compositions.
|
Materials & Craftsmanship |
Enamel
Enameling is a decoration technique in which a glass of certain composition is fused to the surrounding or under laying metal. Although the exact origins are unknown, the art of enamelling has been practiced since ancient times. The favor of adorning jewelry with bright colors has always existed and the use of glass created colors which nature – in the form of gemstones – could not provide for in ancient times. Excavations on Cyprus – in the Mediterranean – in the 1950's brought cloisonné enameled jewelry to the surface which dates from the 13th and 11th century BC. These are, to date, the earliest enameled items found in this particular technique.
Silver-gilt
Silver-gilt objects are made by applying a thin layer of gold to the surface of the silver using a variety of techniques such as gilding, electroplating, or rolling. The gold layer is typically very thin, ranging from a few micrometers to a few hundred micrometers in thickness. The gold layer is applied to the surface of the silver to give the appearance of solid gold, but the underlying silver is still visible.
The process of creating silver-gilt objects requires a high level of skill and attention to detail. The gold layer must be applied evenly and smoothly, without any defects or blemishes. The silver-gilt object is then polished to give it a smooth, shiny finish.
Silver-gilt objects have been used for centuries as a way to add value and beauty to items made of silver. They are often used in the production of fine jewelry, decorative objects, and religious or ceremonial items. In addition to their aesthetic appeal, silver-gilt objects are also highly prized for their durability and resistance to tarnish.
|